DEVIL'S SLIDE

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In the wake of its main access road, landslide-prone Highway 1, reopening in the middle of last summer, visitors are flocking back to one of California's only state beaches that officially permits nudity. Called Grey Whale Cove State Beach, but known as Devil's Slide to longtime users, the complexion of the beach's crowd has changed since the state began administering the site, which had been privately operated. On warm days, when maybe 200 persons are on the sand, only about 25 percent of the visitors are now nude, according to regular visitors. As recently as 2003, more than 50 percent of the users were naked. "It didn't feel as comfortable," says visitor Russ Lucas, who stopped by more recently. "There were a lot more people there, compared to before. Everyone seems to coexist, but the more mixed crowd than before still made me feel a little uneasy."

The people Lucas terms the "lookie-loos" -- nude beach language for gawkers -- also bother Bay Area Naturists leader Rich Pasco, of San Jose. "People from Kansas and other tourists aren't the problem," he says. "The big problem is that some members of the public are clueless jerks who haven't learned the etiquette of being nude. People there will hover or stare (at nudists) or misbehave sexually. Just because it's a nude beach doesn't mean you can act that way. They shouldn't stare or be a pest. They should treat nudists respectfully."

Nude use is especially popular on the north end of the long, sandy shore. "The beach is beautiful and the parking is easy," says Lucas. "It's a good place to go to recharge from work," adds Ron, who likes to swim there. "The waves are pretty good. And if you like Frisbee, it's easy to find somebody to play with at the cove." Signs, though, warn about dangerous surf. There's no lifeguard on duty. Dogs are prohibited. The beach is open 365 days a year and is one of the only California state parks that does not accept an Annual Day Use Pass.

Legal status: Gray Whale Cove State Beach.

How to find it: From San Francisco, take Highway 1 south through Pacifica. Three miles south of the Denny's Restaurant in Linda Mar, turn left (inland or east) on an unmarked road, which takes you to the beach's parking lot, from which a 146-step staircase leads to the sand. "The steps are in good shape," says Ron. Coming from the south on Highway 1, look for a road on the right (east), 1.2 miles north of the Chart House restaurant in Montara.

The beach: A 300-foot long site, surrounded by orangeish sandstone cliffs on one side and the beautiful Pacific Ocean on the other. Devil's Slide is a great place to read, tan, jog, play Frisbee, or watch (true to its state beach name) gray whales, pelicans, and surfers.

The crowd: Tourists, families, surfers, and naturists all use the beach.

Problems: Influx of suited visitors; cold water; fog; wind; landslides sometimes close Highway 1; long walk to the beach; three great white sharks seen in '80s; parking fee; some sexual activity reported in north cove area in recent past. Rangers occasionally warn nude patrons "don't even think of having sex here," and have even made a few arrests, but based on several reports we've received, rangers only make spot checks on the sand. "They should cite people more often who are acting sexually," says Pasco.

Rating: A.

PEOPLE'S BEACH

Despite warning signs that advise hikers not to take its steep, treacherous trail, the beach next to Devil's Slide has attracted small numbers of visitors since at least the 1970s, when San Leandro resident Dave Smith remembers throngs of "50 to 60 people" somehow making it down on the sand -- "You had to jump the last eight feet until somebody finally added a plank," he says -- for tanning, socializing, or even playing volleyball. The way he tells it, the site eventually "became a gay scene." Later, frequent instances of sex on the beach, and further deterioration of the trail, reportedly drove most visitors away.

"We really like it," says a reader who calls it Doug's Beach after his friend. "Doug and I go there quite a bit." And says Bay Area resident Timothy Moscow: "It's heaven." But Carl Ernst, former operator of adjacent Devil's Slide, advises visitors to try other beaches instead. "All I can say is that it's not a very good beach," tells Ernst. The trail to the site is so dangerous that it's been officially closed for years. Users say the crumbling, breakaway path gives way to a 20-foot drop at the end. Wear hiking shoes and be prepared to turn back.

Legal status: State property, presumed to be part of Montara State Beach.

How to find it: From San Francisco, take Highway 1 south past Pacifica to Montara Beach. Park at the Montara State Beach lot, then walk north along the highway to the trailhead. The beach path begins next to a highway turnout. Look for the "Hiking, Climbing Prohibited" sign.

The beach: "On a good day, it's maybe 80 to 100 yards long," estimates Ernst. During high tide, the site may disappear altogether. Does the beach have any redeeming qualities? The answer: not many. "It's very quiet, which is why I go here," one reader says. Another says it's less windy than Devil's Slide.

The crowd: Usually just you. A huge crowd here would be five people.

Problems: Nearly inaccessible; crumbling and dangerous trail made even worse by this winter and spring's heavy rains; fog; cold water; small beach; lack of precise trail directions; reports of sex on the beach.

Rating: D.

MONTARA STATE BEACH

MONTARA STATE BEACH

Just a handful of visitors still sunbathe topless or nude at long, narrow ribbon of sand at the extreme north end of Montara State Beach. The site, which is just south of Devil's Slide and adjacent People's Beach, originally drew nudists when a landslide blocked the road to Devil's Slide years ago. Tip: if you see rangers approaching from the south end of the beach, suit up quickly or you will be subject to a citation.

Legal status: State beach, where rangers do not tolerate nudity.

How to find it: Montara is 1.1 miles south of Devil's Slide on Highway 1. Arrive early on busy days to get parking. Walk north to the northern tip of the beach, where occasional nudity takes place on the hottest summer weekdays.

The beach: A narrow shoreline at the north end, where some dunes were nice for private sunbathing. But erosion has pushed nudists to more exposed areas.

The crowd: Only a few naturists now use Montara.

Problems: Fog; wind; beach erosion; icy water; intolerant park rangers.

Rating: C.

SAN GREGORIO

A visit to San Gregorio combines history with recreation. Approaching its 40th anniversary, clothing optional, privately run San Gregorio is America's oldest nude beach. Amazingly, it was founded in 1967, right next door to San Gregorio State Beach, where nudity is not allowed. The huge property attracts some nude and suited straight couples, singles, and families. "It's a really romantic spot," says a single woman. But make no mistake, San Gregorio has, over the years, become mostly a gay hangout and pickup spot. Want to give it a try? First-timers are sometimes a bit put off by the driftwood structures on the sandy slope leading down to the beach, which are used by some visitors as "sex condos." Others relish San Gregorio's scenery. It has "awesome natural beauty," says regular visitor Bob Wood. There are two miles of soft sand and tide pools to explore, as well as a lagoon, lava tube, and, if you look closely enough on the cliffs, the remains of an old railroad.

Legal status: Private property, leased land.

How to find it: From Tunitas Creek Way, south of Half Moon Bay, the beach is about a mile up Highway 1. Around 100 yards north of Highway 84 on 1, take a dirt road past the big white gate with the Toll Road sign. Go a few hundred feet, and just after the 55 mph sign on your right, turn left on the dirt road (look for the address 19429 above the fence) and head past a grassy field to the parking lot, where you'll be asked to pay an entrance fee. Take the long path from the lot to the sand; everything north of the trail's end is clothing-optional. The beach is also accessible from the San Gregorio State Beach parking area to the south; from there, hike about a half-mile north. Take the dirt road past the big white gate with the Toll Road sign to the parking lot.

The beach: You'll find caves, cliffs, driftwood structures, and a beach full of clean, rolling sand. Pets are OK (though dogs are not allowed on weekends or holidays); fires, cameras, and overnight camping are banned. Swimming is not recommended. There are chemical toilets in the parking lot.

The crowd: On the warmest days 50 to 200 visitors may be spread thinly along the sprawling beach, which is so large it never feels crowded. "The wide open spaces give one the feeling of being very alone," a reader named Paul says. "I was surprised, though, that even on warm weekends there were almost no heterosexuals in sight." On the south end of the beach, there are sometimes dozens of straight couples and families, both naked and clothed. Gay men tend to hang out on the north side.

Problems: Fee; wind; riptides; cold water; summer fog; sex on the beach or in driftwood "condos"; not much of a social atmosphere.

Rating: A.

POMPONIO STATE BEACH

It's easy to understand why naturists keep coming to Pomponio's charming, wind-sheltered cove. But getting here can be a struggle. And once you arrive, you may be one of the only nudists here. Be prepared for a challenge: the path to the sand is long and eroded. And the waves are so rough they've been known to sweep some visitors out to sea. However, Pomponio is an awesome place to work on a tan, read a book, or just relax.

Legal status: State beach property.

How to find it: Pomponio is about two miles north of Pescadero State Beach on Highway 1, some 12 miles south of Half Moon Bay. To find the nude area at the south end of the 1.5-mile long beach, walk south in low tide along the water from the Pomponio entrance. Or from the old Pomponio parking turn-out (marked with pole-like barriers) on Highway 1, follow a trail that starts there until it enters a ravine with a creek. Visitors used to cross the canyon on a board, but it's gone. At last report, some regulars were hopping on a pallet to cross part of the chasm, and then crawling the rest of the way.

The beach: There's a mile and a half of flat, partially sheltered sand. To avoid falling rocks, stay away from the cliffs.

The crowd: In its heyday, up to 25 nudists a day were frequenting the beach.

Problems: Long walk; riptides; cliff erosion; cold air; wind; gawkers; reports of car burglaries in the past; swimming while au naturel is not permitted.

Rating: C.

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