KIRBY COVE

Despite storm-damaged paths that, owing to funding problems, have not been fully repaired, visitors have been returning to some of the five nude coves off Conzelman Road in Sausalito that are still officially closed. Golden Gate National Recreation Area rangers like Terry Swift still say they're not recommended, because of the scrambling sometimes required, but it hasn't stopped readers from going back and, in several cases, reporting good experiences.

Legal status: Part of GGNRA. The trail is officially closed. "We don't have enough rangers to post somebody there 24 hours a day, 7 days a week," supervising ranger Richard Danielsen told us. "Some people do go down there, they get back up, and they don't get hurt. Other times people do get hurt there."

How to find it: From San Francisco, cross the Golden Gate Bridge and take the Alexander Avenue exit off Highway 101. Instead of driving toward Sausalito, go under the highway and up into the headlands on Conzelman Road about half a mile to the parking lot on the left with chemical toilets. Walk down the winding dirt road (blocked to cars by a metal gate) leading to the beach.

The beach: More pebbly than sandy, Kirby is a narrow, quarter-mile-long beach that's more exposed and somewhat smaller than Red Rock (see below). Swimming isn't advised.

The crowd: On hot summer days when the tide's out, nude use has varied from 50 to 90 percent.

Problems: Pebbly beach; swimming hazardous; trail problems; hard to find (drive slowly).

Rating: C.

BLACK SAND BEACH

The biggest news to hit the Sausalito beach scene is that Black Sand Beach, one of Marin County's oldest clothing-optional beaches, appears to be in pretty good shape. A year or two ago new stairs were installed at the site that is also known as Bonita Beach. "There's a 60-foot-long staircase that will get you down on the sand in maybe 10 minutes and back up in 15 minutes," says East Bay resident Trevor Murphy. "It's so easy that you could take your grandmother." Not everyone agrees with Murphy's assessment. "My wife thought it was harder going down the hill than the trail at Red Rock," he says.

Legal status: Part of GGNRA. Trail officially closed. See Kirby Cove entry (above) for policy details.

How to find it: Follow the directions for Kirby, but instead of stopping at the first parking lot, look for one 3.5 miles from the start of Conzelman Road. Go slow where the road becomes one-way and goes downhill. As it begins to flatten out, just past a guardrail on the left, check for a lot with a toilet. The trail starts here. Warning: sometimes there's poison oak on the sides, and it gets muddy after rain.

The beach: A cove around a half mile long and some 15 feet wide. On windy days, Murphy says, some visitors "insert themselves in [rocky] wind-protected alcoves."

The crowd: Black Sand's getting a mix of users, both nude and suited, with gay men usually outnumbering straight folks. Murphy stopped by once with his wife and another time by himself. "People weren't very sociable," he says.

Problems: Trail officially closed; some poison oak; reports of sex on the beach in previous years. At all the Sausalito coves you may encounter trash, gawkers, and water that's usually too cold and swift for swimming.

CENTRAL BONITA

It's considered OK "naked etiquette" to bring your camera to Central Bonita Beach to snap shots of the Golden Gate Bridge, as long as you don't aim it at the nudists. But if you want to try the crumbling, closed trail down to the beach, there's something else you may wish to have: good hiking shoes. Can you also put up with some occasional gusts of wind? Then this sun spot may be right for you. More than half the visitors at this little cove are usually nude or topless. Note: walking around the rocks to enter or leave the cove is hazardous.

Legal status: Part of the GGNRA.

How to find it: Head for Black Sand Beach (see above) and continue on Conzelman Road until it becomes two-way again. Park in the lot with the chemical toilet on the left. Stay left and look for a narrow trail leading to the beach; use it with extreme caution. Visitor Scott Marovich reports crumbling, rocky bluffs near the bottom that are often washed out.

The beach: Central Bonita has the same great views of the Golden Gate Bridge and San Francisco as Black Sand Beach, but it's smaller and usually windier.

The crowd: "There were maybe 10 or 12 people," a visitor says.

Problems: See Black Sand Beach. Bad trail; wind.

Rating: D.

WEST BONITA BEACH

While clothing-optional sunbathing is the main activity at West Bonita Beach, swimming can also be fun, as long as the wind and wave action have died down. But the slippery — and some say downright dangerous — path to the little cove is still closed.

Legal status: Part of the GGNRA.

How to find it: Follow directions to Central Bonita Beach and park in the lot with the chemical toilet. The park service has erected a wood-and-cable fence across the trail near the lot, along with a warning sign. There are no other safe trails to the beach. When it reopens, take the trail, a dirt fire road that eventually loops uphill. At the bottom of the loop, go left along a narrow side path that leads into the brush. Keep following the forks in the path that point you back toward the Golden Gate. You'll come to railroad-tie steps leading much of the way down, but at last report the final 20 feet were crumbling and muddy. "Wear sturdy shoes," a visitor suggests. "Small children can usually make it if kept on a tight rein." Do not veer off the path, even if you see a shortcut; it could lead to a fall to the rocks or water below.

The beach: So small it disappears in high tide.

The crowd: "If there were 20 people here, it would be real crowded," says Scott Marovich. Expect a mixed crowd of singles and families, with more than 50 percent nude or topless.

Problems: Trail closed (effectively blocking access); directions could be improved; swimming hazardous when undertow is present; loss of beach during high tide.

SOUTH RODEO BEACH

Don't be surprised if you see a few shocked tourists wandering onto a small, often blustery nude shoreline just south of the more public Rodeo Beach. They'll probably leave the cove, which tends to be windy and cold, fairly quickly. Despite its tendency to feel rather icy, South Rodeo does have its charms. One of them: it's the only one of the Bonitas that faces the Pacific.

Legal status: Part of the GGNRA.

How to find it: Follow directions to Kirby Cove, but at the first juncture after Conzelman Road becomes two-way, ignore the Beach sign and bear left. When you come to the lighthouse turnoff, go right. At the next turnoff to your left, after the white building, is a dirt parking lot for Battery Alexander. Park here. On the west (ocean) side look for a sandy, somewhat slippery quarter-mile-long path to the beach that leads you downhill to the left, past a No Fires sign. According to Scott Marovich, the trail is narrow but not difficult. Others find the path's mix of rocks and sand difficult to negotiate.

The beach: A west-facing cove.

The crowd: Small numbers of nudists and suited users, plus a few tourists.

Problems: Weather; sandy; somewhat slippery path; swimming not advised.

Rating: C.

COYOTE BEACH

New listing!

Just south of the popular nude area at Muir Beach, another clothing-optional enclave — known to just a few people — is emerging on the shoreline west of the hillside known as Coyote Ridge. "It's a little sandy cove and beach," says Alex Towery, of San Rafael. "I've gone three or four times with my girlfriend, who's been visiting it for years." The hill is the first one south of the Muir Beach parking lot. Two trails go up the hill; one, called the Coyote Ridge Trail, is just east of the slope's ocean-facing edge, while another is located between the first trail and the sea. Beach visitors follow the latter path over several ridges for about 20 minutes to the sea.

Legal status: Unknown.

How to find it: From San Francisco, take Highway 1 north to Muir Beach, to milepost 5.7. Turn left on Pacific Way and park in the Muir lot (don't park on Pacific, even if you see cars there — by the end of the day they'll probably all be ticketed). Or park on the long street off Highway 1 across from Pacific and about 100 yards north. From the Muir lot, turn left (south) and walk to the end of the public beach. "Then," suggests Towery, "take the trail that starts there along the hillside, but don't go all the way up the hill. Instead, look for a path that's just to the west of the first trail and follow it as it goes up and over two hills. It's kind of steep in parts. You can get a great view at the top of the hills. You hike for maybe 20 minutes, and then it finally goes down to a spot where it levels off and isn't so steep, and the trail takes you down to the beach."

The beach: Small but sandy. "I've gone swimming there, but it's pretty cold," adds Towery. "Just be careful of the big rocks that are on the right [north] side of the beach."

The crowd: Often deserted, Coyote occasionally attracts hikers who wander down its trail to the water.

Problems: Unknown legal status; steep trail; needs better directions; cold water.

Rating: C.

MUIR BEACH

Recommended!

Muir's my favorite Northern California nude beach. It's also one of the region’s most popular sites. "On Highway 1, the cars were parked for as far as you can see," says Michael Velkoff, of San Rafael. It's the Bay Area's easiest clothing-optional site to use, requiring a simple walk from a parking lot (come before 11 a.m.) along the shore of the main public beach and a few steps over some easy rocks to reach it — and no steep trails or poison oak to worry about. The gorgeous, quarter-moon-shaped cove features an easygoing, diverse crowd, good swimming conditions, and a no-pressure atmosphere where you can wear as little or as much as you want. Minuses include more fog and wind than at nearby Red Rock Beach (below) and some antinudity efforts by sheriff's deputies in 2001.

Legal status: Owned up to the tidal zone by a homeowner's association. All is now quiet at the beach where a series of surprise antinudity raids took place in 2000–<\d>01. Marin County sheriff's deputies say they don't have an antinudity patrol but will act on complaints. The biggest complainers seem to have moved. Some deputies are happy they don't have to visit. "Why bug anybody?" one of the arresting officers says. "If it's out of sight, it's out of mind. We haven't had any complaints in several years, so let's hope it continues."

How to find it: From San Francisco, take Highway 1 north to Muir Beach, to milepost 5.7. Turn left on Pacific Way and park in the Muir lot (don't park on Pacific, even if you see cars there — by the end of the day, they'll probably all be ticketed). Or park on the long street off Highway 1 across from Pacific and about 100 yards north. From the Muir lot, follow a path and boardwalk to the sand, then walk north to a pile of rocks between the cliffs and the sea. You'll need good hiking or walking shoes to cross; in very low tide, try to cross closer to the water. The nude area starts north of it.

The beach: A small, lovely semicircular cove with, in most years, excellent sand for suntanning, reading, and picnicking.

The crowd: Expect more than 100 visitors on a warm day. Straights, gays, singles, couples, families, seniors, young people, and others share Muir, which has a less social atmosphere than nearby Red Rock.

Problems: Gawkers; dogs; wind; parking lot jams up early on warm days; deputies may raid if there are complaints. Amount of sand varies from year to year; it was particularly low in 2005.

Rating: A.

STEEP RAVINE BEACH

We've rated Steep Ravine Beach a "D" for years, but it hasn't stopped people from trying to visit a clothing-optional hot springs that's nearly hidden in the sea. Reaching Rocky Point Hot Springs via its slippery trail is just one challenge. Finding the spring is quite difficult, as it's located in the middle of the shoreline's tidal zone. ("It's only usable at very low tide," says Dave, of San Francisco.) Even walking along the shore isn't much to write home about – it's strewn with enough rocks to fill a quarry. Plus, rangers from a nearby campground don't like naked people, so citations are a risk. "Some people use burlap sacks [to pile dirt] to make walls for a hot tub [around the springs]," Dave adds. Bring a shovel. "It's a fragile place and has somewhat of a sulfur smell," says Leslie, of Oakland. Those who are brave or foolhardy enough to attempt the journey say winter's the best time to visit.

Legal status: Part of Mount Tamalpais State Park. State park rangers here do not tolerate nudity.

How to find it: From Muir Beach, go north on Highway 1 about four miles, then look for the Steep Ravine campground sign; from Stinson Beach, head south two miles. Parking is prohibited on the ocean side of the highway; park across the street. Take the dirt road, which becomes a very long and slippery trail to the water. The spring in the sea (at latitude 37.880, longitude 122.627) is on the north end of the beach.

The beach: Bring a beach chair to sit on the rocky shore, whose main lure is its pristine ruggedness.

The crowd: Usually just you and one or two other folks. Up to a dozen visitors may be found during peak-use periods.

Problems: Extremely dangerous trail; possible law enforcement; poor parking; poison oak; springs often inactive or covered by rocks or debris; no sand for sunbathing; proximity to clothed families at nearby campground.

Rating: D.

RED ROCK BEACH

Recommended!

RED ROCK BEACH

Recommended!

With the reopening of the main route to the beach a few weeks ago, visitors are trickling back to Red Rock, where crews added 40 new parking spaces but have not yet completed trail work. "On hot days it can be a mob scene," says Michael Velkoff, who went to the Rock, located a mile south of Stinson Beach, for 10 days straight last summer. Trevor Murphy found "maybe 200 to 250 people" on the sand. "By 1 p.m., it was wall-to-wall people, but everyone still had a friendly vibe," he says. "Some people were playing ultimate Frisbee. And even though the water was cold, many people were bodysurfing." Regular visitor Hugh Fullerton suggests coming during low tide — and arriving before 11 a.m. to grab a slot in one of two small parking lots.

Legal status: Part of Mount Tamalpais State Park.

How to find it: From Mill Valley, follow the signs to Stinson Beach, heading north on Highway 1. At the long line of mailboxes next to the Muir Beach cutoff point, start checking your odometer. Look for a dirt lot full of cars to the left (west) of the highway exactly 5.6 miles north of Muir and a smaller one on the right (east) side of the road. The lots are at milepost 11.3, one mile south of Stinson Beach. Limited parking is also available 150 yards to the south on the west side of 1. The path to the beach starts near the large Dumpster near the main parking lot. It's a long, steep, fairly wide trail, so take your time, especially at the top, where workers haven’t yet added new wooden steps.

The beach: A quarter-mile curve of sand and shore with rocky sides.

The crowd: "On weekdays most of the visitors are men, but there are some women too," says Velkoff. "They tend to be regulars. We get a lot of newcomers on the weekends." Throughout the course of a day, expect up to 100 people on a warm winter or spring weekday (Velkoff counted just 15 to 20 visitors in late April but 75 on a warm day last summer), with crowds of 30 to 40 more typical and up to 200 or even 300 users on a nice summer weekend. At least two or three dogs can usually be found on the shore.

Problems: Crowded on weekends; long trail walk that in spring is sometimes slippery at the bottom; some poison oak near trail in winter and spring. Auto break-ins in the lot reported by the Point Reyes Light. Cold water, rough waves, and a small beach; dogs; some gawking; a little trash (often picked up by regulars); past reports of fly infestations.

Rating: A. On a scale of 1 to 10, Fullerton and Velkoff both give Red Rock a 10 this year because, as Velkoff says, "it's still the best."

LITTLE STINSON BEACH

If rangers see you headed in the direction of Little Stinson Beach, they'll ask you to leave. Nudity is banned here and at neighboring Stinson Beach. But that hasn't stopped a few daredevils from trying to brave the rocks and crashing waves that separate the two sites. Anyone trying to ford the wild, wind-whipped waves to reach the cove risks drowning and injury.

Legal status: Part of the GGNRA's Stinson Beach Park, where nudity is not allowed.

How to find it: Users park in the main Stinson Beach lot and walk along the sand from the main beach in low tide or (even more hazardous) north from Red Rock Beach. Neither route is recommended.

The beach: Little Stinson is a rock-strewn line of sand between two coves directly north of Red Rock.

The crowd: Visitors are limited to a few diehards.

Problems: Dangerous access; rocks; high waves; law enforcement; great white sharks tend to appear in the waters off Stinson every few years.

THE INKWELL

Drivers, bicyclists, hikers, and even a few skinny-dippers from time to time love to cool off at this old-fashioned swimming hole next to Sir Francis Drake Boulevard in Lagunitas. The two hot tub–like "inkwells" of water for which the spot is named provide a great place for an invigorating naked soak, especially if you stop by on a weekday. On weekends the site is usually a hangout for teens, college-age youths, and other swimsuit-clad visitors. "I felt more than a little conspicuous," says reader Larry, who decided to try the Inkwell Spillways across the street (see Elsewhere in Marin).

Legal status: Private property next to Samuel P. Taylor State Park. "Sometimes the owners come out and shoo you away," a park spokesperson says. "The way I understand it," says San Geronimo's Clay Baldwin, "he only comes when there's a ton of people and they're making a lot of noise."

How to find it: From San Anselmo, take Sir Francis Drake Boulevard west through Fairfax, Woodacre, and San Geronimo to Lagunitas. Some 1.5 miles after Lagunitas you'll come to the green Shafer Bridge. Park on the other (west) side of the bridge as soon as it's safe. The curve in the road is dangerous, so don't park where it says not to. Walk back to the bridge; you'll be able to see part of the soaking area from the road. Take the trail that starts 15 feet east of the bridge.

The beach: The site's stone tubs really do resemble inkwells. From the bridge, the first one you come to is a 6-foot-deep pool measuring about 15 by 20 feet across. Some 10 feet away and to the left is a smaller pool maybe 20 feet deep. "The water's cold but not unbearable," Baldwin says. Trees, bushes, and vines help keep most of the area fairly hidden from the road. Jumping off rocks into the water is not advised.

The crowd: Varies from just a few users to 25. Baldwin counted 14 visitors, split evenly between the sexes, on a warm weekday. Percentage of nude use varies.

Problems: Drop-in nude use; No Parking and No Trespassing signs posted and difficult parking; cold water that obscures rocks; later in summer, surrounding rocks may be too hot for sunning.

Rating: B.

BOLINAS BEACH

Better known for dog walkers and kayakers, Bolinas Beach also gets its fair share of clothing-optional visitors. They usually hang out in the wind-protected areas on the north end of the long, narrow, rocky shoreline. Use this location with discretion: Bolinas has a strong antinudity ordinance. (And the inhabitants have a long history of distrusting outsiders.)

Legal status: Part of the land is private property facing homes. Bolinas's antinudity ordinance includes fines of up to $50 and/or a month in jail for first-time violations.

How to find it: Starting in Stinson Beach, take Highway 1 (also known there as Shoreline Highway) north toward Calle Del Mar 4.5 miles. Bear left on Olema Bolinas Road. Follow it two miles through Bolinas, and park in town or on Ocean Parkway Avenue, which parallels the beach. Walk until you find a spot with enough sand and privacy.

The beach: Somewhat sheltered from the wind by cliffs, Bolinas is wider than some of the nude beaches on our list but narrows as you walk farther away from the parking area. The best sand is near the cliffs. Otherwise, expect a fairly rocky shoreline.

The crowd: On hot summer days families, out-of-towners, and suited sunbathers mingle with local naturists and kayakers. This is also a dog beach.

Problems: Possible harassment from locals; undertow, cold water, and poor swimming conditions.

Rating: B.

RCA BEACH

Recommended!

Breathtakingly beautiful RCA Beach, four miles north of Bolinas, is a fun place to explore. But don't forget to bring your walking shoes for the long, steep trail to the site. Want to surf naked? Almost anything goes at RCA, where surfers, sunbathers, and hikers mingle and the clad and unclad, males and females, singles, couples, and families, and straights and gays all share the same incredible sandy shore. Bring a windbreak or make your own with driftwood.

Legal status: The Nature Conservancy bought this land in 1977, then transferred it to the Point Reyes National Seashore, which turned around and leased it to Commonwealth Health Center, a nonprofit medical clinic. Official Point Reyes policy is that if there are complaints, nudists will be asked to move elsewhere. In practice, however, just about everyone at RCA is nude.

How to find it: From Stinson Beach, take Highway 1 (Shoreline Highway) north towards Calle Del Mar for 4.5 miles. Turn left onto Olema Bolinas Road and follow it 1.8 miles to Mesa Road in Bolinas. Turn right and stay on Mesa until you see cars parked past the MCI antennas. Park and walk a quarter mile to the end of the pavement. Go left through the gap in the fence. The trail leads to a gravel road. Follow it until you see a path on your right, leading through a gate. Take it along the cliff top until it veers down to the beach. Or continue along Mesa until you come to a grove of eucalyptus trees. Enter through the gate here, then hike a half mile through a cow pasture on a path that will also bring you through thick brush. The second route is slippery and eroding but less steep.

The beach: Decent sand that's good for almost every common beach activity.

The crowd: Almost everyone at RCA sunbathes in the buff. Though seldom deserted, RCA is never crowded.

Problems: First trail mentioned in bluffs area somewhat steep; other trail slippery and eroding; long hike; rapid current, cold water, and swimming not recommended.

Rating: A.

STARLIGHT MEADOW

A 60-acre Dogtown area field surrounded by some 200 acres of woods has become America's first clothing-optional meadow. And it's just a 20-minute walk from popular Hagmier Pond (see next entry).

Legal status: GGNRA land managed by Point Reyes National Seashore.

How to find it: From Stinson Beach, go north on Highway 1, passing Audubon Canyon Ranch on the right and, a half mile later, the Bolinas turnoff. After the four-way intersection, look for a GGNRA sign on the right, followed by a eucalyptus grove. Then check for a tree with a sign for Dogtown. Farther along Highway 1, you'll pass a red barn, a silver windmill, and a second eucalyptus grove. After the grove, when you get to (be sure to count them) the 12th bend in the road, look for a group of some 20 eucalyptus trees. Park next to the rocks on either side of the highway. Enter through the lift-up gate in the fence on the east side of the highway, then take an easy, gradually climbing path about 15 or 20 minutes to Starlight, a large meadow in the middle of the trees.

The beach: Not exactly a beach per se, but a meadow ringed by a large expanse of woods.

The crowd: Mostly gay males, but some heterosexual couples have started using the meadow. An estimated 50 people on weekends and as many as 10 on weekdays.

Problems: Pullover easy to miss; lack of water; some gawkers; sexual activity; trail may be muddy.

Rating: B.

HAGMIER POND

The place that Marinites call "the Pond" has become so silted over that you can't go in it very much, according to veteran visitor Michael Velkoff. Nevertheless, in the spring and early summer, and then again in the fall and on warm winter days, this inland site usually draws dozens of mostly nude sunbathers and water waders from communities that are socked in by the fog on the coast. By midsummer the water often becomes too stagnant and bacteria laden for swimming; please obey posted warning signs.

Legal status: Managed by Point Reyes National Seashore.

How to find it: From Stinson Beach, go north on Highway 1, passing Audubon Canyon Ranch on the right and, a half mile later, the Bolinas turnoff. After the stand of eucalyptus trees, keep heading north, past the Dogtown Pottery sign and some sharp turns with more eucalyptus. As the road becomes straighter, look for another small group of eucalyptus. The parking area is on the west side, next to a Randall trailhead sign. At the entrance, at milepost 20.53, walk right across the meadow and you'll see the pond. Look for sunbathing space around the dam.

The beach: A human-made lake with limited access to the water, except near the dam. "It gets more clogged with weeds every year," says Dave Smith, of San Leandro. Unbeknownst to most visitors, when bathers are not present, cows sometimes wander down to the water for a drink, creating possible health hazards.

The crowd: Up to 75 mostly nude, mostly gay men on hot days; straight folks also visit.

Problems: Pile of solidified mud in parking lot; lake becoming clogged with vegetation; pull-off easy to miss (heading south, if you pass Dogtown, at milepost 18, you've gone too far); limited access; cow manure; cold water and varying water quality; sexual activity at or near site sometimes brings rangers.

Rating: A.

SCULPTURED BEACH

Recommended!

As long as you don't go nude near the public entrances to beaches and don't do anything that will draw complaints, almost anything goes at sprawling, beautiful Sculptured Beach and the rest of the Point Reyes National Seashore. Sculptured has outstanding sand. And the beach is so big that, away from the parking lots and paths, there's lots of space where visitors can disrobe without bothering nonnudists. To avoid fog and wind, consult forecasts before heading out. Expect a moderately long walk to good sites. Activity tip: Once there, look around and, after you've taken a few minutes to relax, go exploring. There's plenty to check out, including tide pools, rock formations, a blowhole, whales, dolphins, and some of California's most lovely sunsets.

Legal status: Property of Point Reyes National Seashore. See ranger comments in next entry.

How to find it: From San Francisco, take Highway 101 north to the Sir Francis Drake Boulevard exit. Then follow Sir Francis Drake through San Anselmo and Lagunitas. At the intersection with Highway 1, go north. Pick up a map at the ranger office in Olema off Highway 1, then take Limantour Road to Limantour Beach and hike three miles south, passing Coast Camp, to Sculptured Beach. Or hike seven miles from the ranger office, or battle the tides by walking along the coast from Limantour.

The beach: Laced with stunning tide pools and backed by breathtaking cliffs, Sculptured Beach is rugged and narrow.

The crowd: It'll probably feel like just you and a few other people.

Problems: Fog, wind, cold water, and a long hike.

Rating: B.

LIMANTOUR BEACH

Recommended!

It's hard to imagine Limantour Beach, in Point Reyes National Seashore, becoming so crowded that its parking lot is nearly full by 10:30 a.m. But that's what's been happening this year on the hottest days. "It's the best place in the world to be nude when the wind's not up," says regular visitor Michael Velkoff, who recommends walking from the lot along the sand for about 10 minutes or at least a couple hundred feet before disrobing. The long, lingering shoreline boasts stunning vistas of the sea, as well as a huge array of wildlife (check for seals at the north end of the beach and whales offshore in the spring). The sand dunes on the northern tip provide great protection from the wind. Nudity is allowed, as long as it's away from the main public areas. District ranger Marc Yeston advises, "You shouldn't rip your clothes off in the parking lot and walk through the picnic area on the way to the beach. If you think a family nearby might be offended, maybe you should choose a more discreet area." Rangers will respond to complaints.

Legal status: Property of Point Reyes National Seashore. Would a ranger cite a naked person lying on his or her back out of sight of others? "Probably not," Yeston says. "It seems about as innocuous as it can get. If somebody is away from other people, I can't imagine it would arouse a problem with any of the rangers."

How to find it: From San Francisco, take Highway 101 north to the Sir Francis Drake Boulevard exit, then follow Sir Francis through San Anselmo and Lagunitas to Olema. At the intersection with Highway 1, turn right on 1. Just north of Olema, go left on Bear Valley Road. A mile after the turnoff for the Bear Valley Visitor Center, turn left (at the Limantour Beach sign) on Limantour Road and follow it 11 miles to the parking lot at the end. Walk north a half mile until you see some dunes about 50 yards east of the shore. Nudists usually prefer the valleys between the dunes for sunbathing. "On a Sunday we had 200 yards to ourselves," Velkoff says.

The beach: Long, sprawling Limantour features soft sand, sand dunes, and plenty of wildlife. In late spring whales can often be seen. To see hundreds of seals, walk north of the "nude dunes" mentioned above until you come to the point known as Limantour Spit. Swimming is fairly safe.

The crowd: On a hot weekend day a few hundred visitors may be spread out across the huge, rambling beach, but because it's so enormous, it may look deserted.

Problems: Increased ranger warnings; complaints about sex; fog, cold water, and wind. If you don't like dogs, stay away from the area south of the parking lot.

Rating: B.

DRAKE'S BEACH

He may not have come ashore nude, but Sir Francis Drake, the first British citizen to sail around the world, probably encountered naked natives during his adventures. Today, suitless sunbathing takes place on a spotty basis on the shore that bears his name, which is close to a memorial named after him. The site is just north of Drake's Beach.

Legal status: Part of Point Reyes National Seashore.

How to find it: From San Francisco, follow Highway 101 north to the Sir Francis Drake Boulevard exit. Stay on Sir Francisc Drake through San Anselmo and Lagunitas. At the intersection with Highway 1, go north to the Point Reyes National Seashore headquarters in Olema. Pick up a map, then follow Sir Francis Drake Boulevard to Drake's Beach Road and stay on it until you reach the beach. If you wind up at Point Reyes Lighthouse, you've gone too far.

The beach: Beautiful, untamed, and sandy.

The crowd: Visited mostly by nonnudists, Drake's also attracts a few discreet skinny-dippers.

Problems: Cold water; wind; directions could be improved.

Rating: C.

BASS LAKE

Recommended!

The fact that it doesn't have any bass isn't the strangest thing about Bass Lake, north of Bolinas. The weird part is that the path to Bass Lake is one of the few trails in California where you sometimes may come across nude or seminude hikers. "In the old days probably 80 percent of us hiked nude, but now only 30 to 40 percent hike nude," says Dave Smith, who made the fairly easy (except for the last part) 2.8-mile, 45-minute walk from the parking lot with a group of 16 members of the Bay Area Naturists this spring. "As usual, the lake was gorgeous," Smith adds. "Once you visit, it'll probably become one of your favorite spots," adds BAN leader Rich Pasco, of San Jose. "The clear, invigorating water is exquisite," says Roy Chernus, and Smith reports that "there's less algae than last year." The area around the water features further attractions, including clumps of calla lilies in the spring. Ringed by stately old trees, the lush, grassy meadow near the lake is great for picnics. For the lake, bring an air mattress and water shoes. For the meadow, in late summer or fall include a towel or sheet to put down as a shield against seasonal burrs.

Legal status: Part of Point Reyes National Seashore.

How to find it: Take Highway 1 north from Stinson Beach. Just north of Bolinas Lagoon, turn left on the often-unmarked exit to Bolinas. Follow the road as it curves along the lagoon and eventually ends at Olema-Bolinas Road, and continue along Olema-Bolinas Road to the stop sign at Mesa Road. Turn right on Mesa and drive four miles, until it becomes a dirt road and ends at a parking lot. On hot days the lot fills quickly, so come early; says Smith, "We saw hundreds of cars." A sign at the trailhead next to the lot will guide you down scenic Palomarin Trail, which begins as an old fire road and then narrows. From the grassy meadow mentioned above, it's just a few easy yards to the water's edge via any of three paths. One veers to the right; another, more eroded and plant clogged, starts to the left of the meadow. In 2005 visitors were delighted to find a fresh, easy-access path down carved out between the other trails. Crews clip back poison oak and other foliage next to the trails each spring.

The beach: Even when it's foggy at the trailhead, it's often clear at the oblong-shaped, 100-yard-long, spring-fed lake. The area is surrounded by beautiful hills.

The crowd: Nude usage varies from hardly any skinny-dippers (Robert Carlsen, of Sacramento, once counted 5 of 75 to 100 visitors on a spring day) to half the crowd (10 of 20 seen by Chernus on a June outing) to virtually everyone. Once someone starts swimming naked, others often follow. Those who are particularly adventurous may want to try the lake's rope swing.

Problems: No beach; meadow sometimes muddy and, at times, prickly; long trek; poison oak on rope swing path.

Rating: A. On a scale of 1 to 10, says Smith, "Bass is always a 10.0."

MOUNT VISION POND

The clock is ticking. You have only five or six years left to enjoy this site. Choked with vegetation, the half-acre, human-made lake known as Mount Vision Pond has been getting fewer and fewer visitors, nude or otherwise. Repairs are needed to fix and clean the dam, but Point Reyes officials say they're unlikely to be made. Instead, says Point Reyes National Seashore district ranger Marc Yeston, "it's going back to nature." Authorities suspect the lake will remain viable until sometime between 2012 and 2017.

Legal status: Property of Point Reyes National Seashore.

How to find it: From San Francisco, take Highway 101 north to the Sir Francis Drake Boulevard exit. Follow Sir Francis Drake through San Anselmo and Lagunitas. At the intersection with Highway 1, go north to the Point Reyes National Seashore office in Olema, pick up a map, and then follow Bear Valley Road to Sir Francis Drake Boulevard. Take Sir Francis past Inverness and Tomales Bay State Park and follow the signs to North Beach. Turn left on Mount Vision Overlook Road. Stay on Mount Vision for about 1.4 miles. Look for a wide shoulder with several parked cars on the right. Take the trail that starts here. It veers to the right down a hill 300 feet or so to the pond. If you pass some residences on the left, you're on the wrong trail. At the end, enter the water via a grassy spot on the dam face.

The beach: Mount Vision is a 150-foot-long lake surrounded by plant growth. "Half of the lake is now marsh," says Robert Carlsen.

The crowd: Sometimes no one, usually fewer than 10 people, both clothed and unclothed.

Problems: Trail around pond becoming choked by plants; increase in reeds and mud; dam appears to be eroding; trail needs maintenance; cold, fog (but less than at Limantour), and no social atmosphere. Bring trail shoes.

Rating: C.

MIDWAY BEACH

Midway is a good place to doff your togs, at least when nobody's around to complain, or at least not any tourists. The good news: tourists seldom visit this rather remote sunbathing spot, located between North Beach and South Beach in Point Reyes National Seashore.

Legal status: Part of Point Reyes National Seashore.

How to find it: From San Francisco, head north on Highway 101 to Sir Francis Drake Boulevard. Stay on Sir Francis Drake through San Anselmo and Lagunitas. At the intersection with Highway 1, head north to the National Seashore headquarters in Olema. Pick up a map and follow Bear Valley Road to Sir Francis Drake Boulevard. Take Sir Francis past Inverness and Tomales Bay State Park and follow the signs to North Beach or South Beach. You'll come to the North Beach trail first. When you get to the beach, walk south along the sand. Or continue on Sir Francis Drake toward the Point Reyes Lighthouse (don't take the road to Drake's Beach). Just after the cutoff to Drake's Beach, look on your right for the trail to South Beach. Follow the same directions as above, except walk north.

The beach: Ruggedly isolated, this patch of land is sandy but cold.

The crowd: Only a few naturists come here.

Problems: Cold water, wind, and fog; a bit too much isolation; directions could be improved.

Rating: C.

MCCLURES BEACH

In 2000 and 2001, Point Reyes National Seashore district ranger Marc Yeston counted four groups of nudists using the far north end of McClures Beach. Since then small numbers of visitors have stripped off their clothes there too and continued a tradition that started in the 1990s. Be prepared for fog, wind, hazardous waves, and a fairly long hike from the end of Pierce Point Road.

Legal status: Part of Point Reyes National Seashore.

How to find it: From San Francisco, head north on Highway 101 to Sir Francis Drake Boulevard. Stay on Sir Francis Drake through San Anselmo and Lagunitas. At the intersection with Highway 1, head north to the Point Reyes headquarters in Olema. Pick up a map, then follow Bear Valley Road to Sir Francis Drake Boulevard. Take Sir Francis Drake to Pierce Point Road. Park at the end of the road and follow the trail to the beach. The path ends at the middle of the beach. So far, nudists have been using the north end of the beach.

The beach: Isolated but sandy.

The crowd: Probably just you.

Problems: Cold water and fog; swimming too hazardous; a bit lonely.

Rating: C.

ELSEWHERE IN MARIN

Some clothing-optional use on warm days can also be found at awe-inspiring Alamere Falls near Bass Lake, which is actually four separate falls; Fern (not to be confused with Stern) Grove, close to Starlight Meadow, in the Dogtown area; and the Inkwell Spillways, near the Inkwell in Lagunitas, which made an indelible impression on a reader named Larry: "It felt comfortable to visit. Just do it discreetly."

May visitor Trevor Murphy told us that the water at Alamere is impressive during the spring but slows down by September. "The big part of the falls goes over a cliff into the sea," he explains, "but there's another stage higher up where the stream falls into a couple of stone pools on a little plateau." In all, Alamere is a whopping 70 feet high, with the lower part measuring maybe 40 to 45 feet.

Legal status: Alamere Falls and Fern Grove are on federal land managed by Point Reyes National Seashore. The status of Inkwell Spillways is unknown; it is said to be monitored and posted with “No Trespassing” signs.

How to find it: To find Alamere, follow the directions to Bass Lake, then continue 1.5 miles from Bass on the Palomarin Trail past Pelican Pond to the waterfalls. Watch for poison oak. Fern Grove is said to be just north of Starlight Meadow. Take Highway 1 past the pullover for Starlight, then look for the start of the Randall Trail. If you reach Fivebrooks on Highway 1 and still haven't seen it, turn around; the trail is about 2.5 miles south. Take the path uphill until you see the meadow. Inkwell Spillways is across the road from the Inkwell (see above). At Shafer Bridge, look for two dirt roads on the left. Park past the bridge and walk back to the dirt roads. Follow the easternmost one, along the creek, for a half mile. When the road turns left, climbing toward the dam at Kent Lake, stay on the trail along the creek.

The beach: Alamere Falls: Alamere Creek is the source of three small falls and a large one that empty into the Pacific Ocean. "All of them are spectacular, but access to them is not easy, requiring a hike down very steep and treacherous trails," reports the Frisky Banner, a local naturism newsletter. "The worst and most dangerous is the last trail that leads directly to the beach. Two men in our group took that trail, and the rest of us stayed near the smaller falls. I was envious looking at the two guys running around naked under the big falls. I took a picture of them from above and even then had my stomach in my throat." Inkwell Spillways: "You'll come to a pool at the base of the spillways," says Robert Carlsen. "There's an outlet from a pumping station that's nice to sit at, plus some big rocks that feel great after swimming.”

The crowd: Only occasional use is reported, the most popular site being Alamere Falls.

Problems: Lack of solid information, including precise directions; poison oak; dangerous hiking conditions near the beach on the trail to Alamere.

Rating: C.

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