April 23, 2003

By Amir Baghdachi and Kerry Rodgers

NEWCOMERS TO SAN Francisco are always complaining that the city goes to bed early. But while it's true there isn't a surfeit of all-night dance clubs, not everyone has toddled off to bed by 2 a.m. Many of San Francisco's night creatures are still buzzing and reveling at one of the 24-hour joints listed below. From greasy spoons to silver spoons, from diner cuisine to Asian feasts, the city has a late spot for every night owl. It may not be a five-star establishment, but let's face it: at 3 a.m., it's better than you deserve.

Bagdad Cafe, a clean, bright, windowy Castro institution, is the queen of all-night diners. You'll find all the sandwich and breakfast classics, as well as fresh salads, vegetarian options, and a fabulous dessert carousel. 2295 Market, S.F. (415) 621-4434.

Sometimes you're just too good for a diner. That's when you need a "contemporary bistro," as Cafe Mason styles itself. What that means, apparently, is a diner in high heels. A menu of Americana is accented by forays into Italian provincial, with exotic entrées like pasta, croque monsieur, and a fanciful trifle called "tiramisu." 320 Mason, S.F. (415) 544-0320.

The Denny's in Japantown expresses the neighborhood's cultural identity with its bold Hawaiian menu: "Moons over My Hammy" rubs shoulders with a platter of Spam, two eggs, rice, and kimchee. The prodigious "Deli-Dinger" stares into the eyes of the fried rice. And if you close your eyes, the Asian decor will conjure up the East. 1700 Post, S.F. (415) 563-1400.

The Denny's in fashionable Fisherman's Wharf will surprise you only in price. 495 Beach, S.F. (415) 776-3700.

The SoMa Denny's will not surprise you at all. 816 Mission, S.F. (415) 243-8800.

International cooperation is never a dream at the International House of Pancakes, a powerhouse of breakfast diplomacy. 2299 Lombard, S.F. (415) 921-4004.

Uncompromising. Vigilant. Cheap. Jack-in-the-Box serves up fast food from its drive-through. 366 Bayshore, S.F. (415) 641-8467.

It's 4 a.m., you've just been mugged, and all you can scrounge from your car seat is a dollar in change. But you can still dine like royalty at King Diner, where 99¢ will procure you a cup of coffee and a doughnut. For the more affluent, burgers begin at a scandalous $3.09. Judging from the decor, King's passes the savings on to you. 1390 Mission, S.F. (415) 552-2707.

For people who find comfort in the predictable menu and nostalgic chrome of a '50s that never was, there's always Lori's Diner. It fulfills and exceeds the formula: the booths are ultra-red, the lighting neon bright, and the jukebox indiscriminate. 336 Mason, S.F. (415) 392-8646.

Everyone's a winner at the Lucky Penny, where Jackpot and Scratchers machines are nearly as tempting as the restaurant's solid diner classics. Come for the fake flowers and pennies under the counter; stay for the boundless booths. 2670 Geary, S.F. (415) 921-0836.

A model of dining temperance, Mel's Drive-In, king of '50s kitsch, is open 24 hours only on Fridays and Saturdays and only at one location. 2165 Lombard, S.F. (415) 921-3039.

There may not be peace on earth, but at least you can eat chicken-fried steak 24 hours a day at Orphan Andy's. Comforting like a well-worn pair of flair jeans, it boasts a jukebox that plays everything from Duke Ellington to the White Stripes – which keeps the crowds swinging beyond respectable bedtimes. 3991 17th St., S.F. (415) 864-9795.

Nobody would ever accuse the Pinecrest Diner of trying too hard. Without tinsel or tofu, owner Bill Foundas has been plating Greek omelettes in this old-school, New York-style establishment for 34 years. Savor the seemingly original forest green carpeting and brown vinyl booths. 401 Geary, S.F. (415) 885-6407.

Through such natural disasters as the earthquake and the '80s, Sparky's has remained open so long, the proprietors have lost the key to the front door. The decor of chrome, neon colors, and mirrors (so you can shudder at your 3 a.m. looks) make you want to party like it's 1984, but the spicy chicken sandwich, three kinds of pie, and Mitchell's ice cream shakes are timelessly delectable. 242 Church, S.F. (415) 621-6001.